'Dreams are necessary to life.'

In the wise words of Anais Nin, 'dreams are necessary to life'. Everyone has dreams...Martin Luther-King had a dream and so did Emmeline Pankhurst - their dreams changed the course of history. My dream isn't as grand as all that - it won't change the world - but it means a lot to me! I am lucky enough to share this dream with one of my dearest friends Samantha and, now that we are here in Russia, we've been lucky enough to make this dream a reality!!

When I was a little girl (I think around 5 years old), my mum took me to see a production of The Nutcracker at Christmas time.

Pictures: Left:(courtesy of poplinlondon.blogspot.com) Right:  (courtesy of The Telegraph)

If you don't know the story then SHAME ON YOU - here's a link (because I'm nice like that)

Not only did it bring a lot of holiday cheer, it started my love of the ballet. I am a self-confessed ballet nerd - I was a member of the English National Ballet club, I did ballet lessons between the ages of 3 and 17 and I've seen more ballets than I can count on two hands.

For years, I have dreamed of seeing a ballet at The Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow. Home to one of the most famous and prestigious ballet companies in the world.

Courtesy of www.qpac.com.au

 

And guess what??

28th of November is the day that dreams come true!!

 

Pictures Courtesy of the Bolshoi Theatre

 

We're going to see the wonderful Le Sylphide!

 

The Story:

  The ballet is set in a manor house in Scotland (sounds strange, I know, but stay with me!). It is the morning of James' wedding to Effie and he is asleep in an armchair by the fire. A sylphide (a magical fairy-like creature) is sitting beside him, and wakes him with a kiss on the forehead. He awakes, confused, but captivated by the beauty of the Sylph, he tries (and fails) to capture her, as she escapes up the chimney.

 

   As the preparations for the wedding go on, James realises that he has fallen in love with the sylphide. In the hustle and bustle of the busy house, an old woman slips in unnoticed to warm herself by the fire. Sensing that she is a bad omen, James tries to shoo her away but his bride Effie convinces him to let her stay and read the fortunes of the guests. She predicts that Effie will marry Gurn (James' arch rival). James threatens the old woman and she curses him.

 

   Effie leaves to get dressed for the wedding leaving James alone. The sylphide reappears and declares her love for him - Gurn enters, runs to Effie and tries to convince her that James is in love with another woman, but she refuses to believe him. As the festivities begin, James, unable to resist the lure of the sylphide, leaves Effie broken hearted as he goes in to the woods in search of his mystical lover.

 

   The old woman plans revenge on James and makes a veil, irresistible to all that see it in her magical cauldron. James is welcomed in to the world of the sylphide in the forest, where the sylphide and her sisters dance for him, though he is still unable to catch her.

 

   The guests of the wedding have come in to the woods in search of James. Gurn proposes to Effie and she accepts, they leave the forest to prepare for their wedding. Meanwhile, James searches for the elusive sylphide and is convinced by the old woman that the veil will enable him to catch her.

 

   Encaptivated by the magical veil, the sylphide allows James to place it around her shoulders as he kisses her. The sylphide's wings fall to the ground, and its evident that the effect of the veil is fatal. James sees the wedding party of Gurn and Effie in the distance, and dies, knowing that he has lost everything.

It sounds tragic but promises to be an amazing show.

Courtesy of Google Maps

As Moscow is a 12 hour night train from Voronezh, we thought we should take the opportunity to explore the city as well. Our train tickets are booked for the 27th returning on the 30th so we have 3 full days to explore the best of the capital.

Already on the to-do list:
St Basils Cathedral

Courtesy of www.onthegotours.com 

The Kremlin

Courtesty of Wikipedia

 

Lenin's Mausoleum (Lenin has been lying in state here since his death in 1924, apart from a short retreat in Siberia during WWII! Morbid, creepy and most certainly intriguing!)

Courtesy of metrovideogame.wikia.com 

 

Has anyone been to Moscow? Any must see's or recommendations?
Would love to hear from you!

With Love from the Motherland x

Culture Super Post!

Whether at home or abroad, I am a bit of a self-confessed culture vulture (if you'll pardon the cliché). As a Londoner, I am lucky enough to have not only the West-End on my doorstep also but the countries most prized archaeological, historical and artistic gems (all poised and ready for FREE viewing). As culture goes, Bath isn't too shabby either. Holiday planning time is usually spent pouring over guidebooks and the holiday itself, strolling, camera in hand, through a carefully planned itinerary of museums, galleries, castles and backstreet cafes.

Though we're technically residents of Voronezh, everyone has to be a tourist in their home town once in a while. This week has been full of impromptu excursions around and about...

 

Our cultural escapades began with this rather delightful concert by the Voronezh Philharmonic...in the local shopping centre...in the middle of the food court. We enjoyed wondrous symphonies and hummed along to the scores of our favourite ballets, all washed down with a KFC diet coke. One way to bring high culture to the masses I suppose!

 

Next on the hit list was the Voronezh Regional Museum. Our culture lecturer organised a guided tour for us (all in Russian of course) as an alternative to our classroom lecture. Starting in the pre-historic period, we wandered through the exhibits from the bronze and iron ages, through the tsarist period, straight through WW1 and in to the revolution and the Soviet era.

 

Some of the things I found most interesting were our guide's explanation of the original settlement of Voronezh, which was created as a walled fortress (artists impression top left), and also the connection to the Tsar Peter the First who built Russia's first naval fleet in the town.

 

My favourite exhibit was surrounding the revolution and also the exhibit of Soviet propaganda. Having taken modules on both Soviet history and Totalitarian Politics last semester, it was interesting to see Russian history told from a Russian perspective.

 

 

This is my favourite poster from the Revolution exhibit. It is quite graphic, featuring a depiction of Lenin and Trotsky slitting the wrists of a woman, who I assume represents the motherland. The caption reads 'Lenin and Trotsky Doctors of a sick Russia'. To me, the image and its translated caption don't seem to match. The picture looks like they are trying to butcher the motherland but apparently they are her doctors...cruel to be kind, perhaps? Symbolic of cutting ties with an antiquated and corrupt system to make way for the saviours of Russia? Who knows...interpret as you will.

 

 

As a lover of the theatre, I was particularly excited when our culture lecturer suggested that we go and see a production of Юнона и Авось (a rock opera/ballet) at the beautiful Voronezh Opera and Ballet Theatre. In preparation for the show, our spoken language lecturer told us the story.

 

It's a beautiful, true love story set in the 1800s in San Francisco. Nikolai Petrovich Rezanova, a naval captain, sails from Russia to America to improve trade relations. Whilst he's there he meets Conchita, the sixteen year old daughter of the town's governor, and the fall in love. Though they want to marry, Conchita's parents forbid it as he is an Orthodox whilst she is a Catholic and they also don't want her to leave to live in a snowy, distant land. Going against her parents wishes, they are engaged to be married but Nikolai must return to Russia. He tells Conchita to wait for him and that he will come back for her. When he reaches Russia, he get sick in Siberia and dies. Conchita never hears of his death and continues to wait for him for nearly 40 years.

 

A sad but touching story, I think you'll agree. We were told that the show would be a modern representation of the classic story.

 

What transpired was interesting to say the least...

 

 

I absolutely ADORE the ballet.

I have seen many performances, both classical and modern.

Even if I don't like the style of a ballet or I don't really understand the story or message it is trying to convey, I can still appreciate the technical skill behind what the dancers are doing. I can safely say that this was no such occasion.

There is dancing with abandon (in a stylised way) and there is just not knowing where you are going to land or whether you are going to knock over the person next to you. This ballet was the latter.

There is choreography which is meant to evoke chaos and there is actual chaos. This was again the latter.

I am by no means a ballet snob (though I absolutely sound like it!) - I have been to plenty of amateur productions that I have really enjoyed. This, however, was a professional performance, not carried out to a professional standard.

There were some stand out dancers - namely Conchita - but the chorus left a lot to be desired.

Only one word for this one: OBSCURE!

 

Sam and I were less than impressed

 

 

After a late night, we had an early morning (and 3 hour bus drive) to go on an excursion to Divnagore. A national park close (in the Russian sense of the word) to Voronezh. It boasts beautiful view of the River Don and the surrounding countryside, the remains of an old fort, a beautiful chalk canyon and (the highlight) a chalk church and accompanying monastery. Here are some of my favourite snaps.

 

Chalk church protected by a beautifully painted icon of the Virgin Mary. Legend has it that during a cholera epidemic a few hundred years ago, a woman from a village in the valley below dreamt that the cure for the disease would be found through prayer to the icon of the Virgin Mary of Sicily, located within the monastery. The monks spent ages searching but couldn't locate the icon, until someone remembered having seen it above the door way of one of the churches. Prayers were uttered and townspeople were cured. The church still houses the Virgin Mary of Sicily, but it is a reproduction - the original lost somewhere in history. 

Views of the Don from the remains of the fort.

Chalk canyon.

 

Just as I thought my historical journey was through for the week, our Russian work colleagues took us to this beautiful spot.

 

This park is just around the corner from the railway station and its filled with historical goings on...

 

In 1879, a political group met in this park to discuss what was to be done about the reforms of radical Tsar Alexander the Second. The party was split in its views one half wanting to impose its views through parliamentary measures and the other feeling that terrorism was the only way to break the cycle of reforms which they opposed so much. Each went their separate ways. The terrorist arm of the party later went on to assassinate Alexander the Second in St Petersburg. This memorial remembers the historical significance of that meeting in the park.

 

 

Here you can see the ruins of what was once one of Voronezh's premier concert venues. During a concert of Russia's most popular bands during the soviet period, things got out of hand - whether the crowd was to rowdy, or trouble broke out, no one knows but somebody was killed. Later, the theatre was torched in an arsene attack and the culprit was never caught...perhaps the mother of the killed concert goer got her revenge? The ruins have been left to grow over but the catacombs that are beneath them are the scene of many a Halloween dare.

 

 

 What better place for a staff meeting than sat on logs on a balmy autumn day enjoying the colours of the trees?

 

Our Month-iversary: Only in Russia

Credit: Isobel Morrice

So Saturday 5th was our official Month-iversary of being here in Voronezh and we most definitely chose to see it in in style. Russian Champagne is way cheaper than any bottle of wine on a restaurant menu, so being fancy is just more economical (cue a Friday (all)night(er) consisting of 7 bottles between four or five depending who was chipping in at the time)!

As a celebration of our first milestone, I have decided to share with you some of my favourite 'Only in Russia' moments so far (in no particular order).

• Sam's Landlady's Home Remedies. To cure fresher's flu: pick flowers from your windowsill garden and prepare magical daisy broth for your patient to drink. Place both hands and feet in scalding water. Rub hands, feet and chest with copious amounts of vodka. Swathe the infected person first in muslin cloth to protect the vodka infused areas, then in as many layers of warm clothing as you deem fit. Tuck them in tight (to prevent escape) and then leave them to simmer for the rest of the night.
• The giant inflatable sausage being paraded down the street during the City Day festivities.
• The man cursing under his breath while walking along the pavement with his bumper in hand.
• Realising on a drunken night in that the corner shop had closed and buying wine was no longer an option, then going down the street kiosk and buying 3 beers (which can be sold without a license alongside soft drinks) Beer is far too tame for Russians!
• This nice little path someone create to cross the epic puddle on the zebra crossing (helpful for me because my legs are too little to jump)

• The trolleybus that came off its electric runners going around a bend. The driver got out, climbed on top of the bus, reattached the runners without batting an eyelid and drove on.
• Meeting a guy and his female friend on an all-nighter. We spent ages chatting and laughing, he told us about his wife and two daughters and about life in Russia. As much as we tried to our protest, he then proceeded to pay for our entire bill (including drinks and food ordered before we'd even met) and insisted on driving everyone home.
• The ridiculous bureaucracy involved in obtaining a student reading card, then the palava of traipsing half way across the city (3hours in total) to get our verb book from a library where there are no books! The books are under lock and key, you request which on you want and it is found on your behalf - no perusing the shelves here then!
• Sam's Landlady's notorious cooking: any one for chicken stomach or this fabulous meat jelly??

Credit: Samantha Herriot

• The very helpful old lady on the front desk at the central library who spent 15 minutes talking to us, flashing her full set of gold teeth the whole time.
• Realising that full sets of gold teeth are not a rarity.
• Tyla's landlady boiling her water to wash with in a spell of no hot water (a regular occurrence for all it seems). The landlady politely told Tyla to strip, not to be shy because she had 'seen many breasts before' and then lovingly washed her hair for her.
• The Russian guy who got escorted out of the bar by two policemen (one on each arm) after spending over an hour harassing us!
• This prime example of Russian health and safety (this hole is as wide as a table and deeper than I am tall)

Credit: Samantha Herriot

 

 ...these are just some of the many anecdotal 'Only in Russia' stories we could tell! and with one month down and two to go, I am sure there will be many more.

All that's left to be said is За здоровье!

Credit: Isobel Morrice

 

With love from the Motherland, Comrades!

 

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'I am not a glutton - I am an explorer of food!'

As Erma Bombeck once said, 'I am not a glutton - I am an explorer of food'. In this respect good old Erma and I are one in the same. I am of the 'try anything once' mentality and would gladly swap a night on the town for a meal out any day.

In the last week, the Russian autumn has turned bitter. Last Friday, it was 1 degree and snowing and, with slim improvement (an average daily temperate of around 3-4 degrees), coming back to a home cooked meal has been a great way to warm my bones! It is quite clear to me that my landlady, Galina, is trying to provide me with extra layers of insulation for what promises to be an even harsher winter.

People are often curious about the food here in Russia, so what better way to showcase it than a food diary in pictures?

Завтрак

Breakfast is a fairly western affair - my daily porridge with apricot jam and bread and cheese goes down a treat before my half hour walk to uni. Anyone will tell you that I am not a morning person. Rising any time before 11.30am leaves me dazed, confused and grumpy - hence why there is not an illustrative picture of my daily fare (I am usually too bleary eyed to remember to take one).

For your general enjoyment, however, here is the McMuffin poster I pass on my way to uni.

Обед

Due to the epic portions that my land lady (Galina) provides for breakfast and dinner, I tend to try and avoid lunch (except on the weekends when Galina cooks me all three meals!). Sometimes temptation takes me however and I give in.

One of my go-to lunches here in Russia is Pelmeni. These gorgeous meat-filled dumplings are just what you want when your fingers are frozen. Smothered in smetana (soured cream) or butter and usually topped with dill (unfortunately), they are a popular feature of the famed business lunch (cheap set menu lunches). This meal, with peach juice, set me back a mere £2.20 - way better than your crummy Boots meal deal! Fear not vegetarians, you can also get a friendly veggie alternative called Vareniki, stuffed with potatoes.

One thing people are often struck by on their first visit to the Motherland is the popularity of sushi. The sheer number of sushi restaurants and takeaways is unbelievable, and its fairly reasonably priced to. Here in Voronezh, a favourite sushi haunt is Tanuki. However, some of my fondest memories of St Petersburg centre around Sushi Wok and its bargain super set takeaway - perfect if you're doing some summer sight seeing and fancy a picnic.

Our lovely Russian culture lecturer Tatiana ushered us in to her classroom this week to help her demolish left over salad, which in Russia, as you can see, has mayonnaise as its constituent ingredient more often than not. With a side of black bread (sort of comparable to Rye), this impromptu lunch was amazing! 

Of all my weekend lunches, these have to occupy the Number 1 spot. Russian blini (pancakes) are world renowned and with both sweet and savoury fillings available you are never short of choice. These ones, lovingly made by Galina, were stuffed with egg and cabbage - a tasty if obscure combination. Perfect with a little dollop of smetana.

Ужин

Dinner is usually quite a bulky affair, served at 7pm on the dot without exception. Occasionally things like spaghetti and meatballs appear on my plate but on the whole things seem to be quite typically Russian.

This is a prime example of standard dinner size. Main course, salad (non negotiable) and sweet treats in copious quantites all washed down with a cuppa (no milk, no sugar). This particular meal is quite a staple: chicken with Гречка (which I think in English is buck wheat). Russians go crazy for the stuff - Galina (who isn't very well today) ate a whole bowl covered in sugar for dinner (minus the chicken, obviously) . She said her mother used to give it to her as a child - I can't see the attraction personally. Though she did also say she likes macaroni with sugar, so I wouldn't take her as an example of a typical Russian!

Chicken Meatball and Rice

Under all that carrot sauce is a piece of rather boney fish on top of pasta. In our house once fish has been cooked, it isn't reheated so this is fine on day 1 but on day 2 and 3 it leaves much to be desired.

This may look like your standard frankfurter, veg and chips, but you are wrong...

It is also handy reading practice (yes that is a word that you can see on my sausage!)...perhaps a Russian equivalent of alphabet spaghetti??

Пирожки, пряники и печенье

Little sweet treats are a favourite of Galina's and she tends to make a small mountain of them next to my dinner plate. They are usually left untouched until she guilt trips me in to taking them on a plate to my room 'for later'. She likes to bake so there is always some kind of sweet treat laying around. 

Galina's apple cake

Baking Пирожки...

Sometimes, however, these little treats come with a twist. I was told that these пирожок where stuffed with apple. After accepting a tasty apple treat, I later bit in to one which was filled with egg fried rice...nothing is as it seems!

Закуски

The wonderful world of Russian snacking is an interesting thing to explore.
Behold my corner shop offerings:

This round bread is my savoury craving saviour - its so big that it will last me a couple of days and for 50p who can argue. 

Crisps here are a minefield with normal Walkers flavours ranging from crab to caviar to smetana with dill. I thought maybe these small croûton snacks would be a nice alternative. I opted to try the Shashlik flavour. All I will say is pieces of stale bread that taste like kebab are not the way forward. 

So there you have it - a weeks worth of my food adventures in a nutshell...

If all else fails, there's always vodka...

Credit: Isobel Morrice